We recommend choosing polish by the result you need and what will go on afterwards. AutoBead Finishing Compound suits fine refinement, CarPro Reflect is an option before a compatible coating, and CarPro Fixer combines correction and finishing where the paint allows it. For hand-applied gloss with built-in protection, consider Stjarnagloss Skara. Always establish the result on a small test section first.
What is the best car polish in the UK?
The best choice depends on the paint, the defects and your next protection step. We recommend starting gently: a finishing polish may give enough improvement without heavy cutting. A one-step product can save time, while an all-in-one adds protection. Before a coating, follow that coating system's preparation instructions.

Here is how the finishing polishes we stock compare.
Polish, all-in-one or glaze: which do you need?
A pure polish to see the true finish, a polish with protection to refine and seal in one step, or a glaze for quick gloss that fills rather than removes. The three types are below.
- A pure polish removes defects and adds nothing to hide them. AutoBead Finishing Compound contains no fillers, and CarPro Reflect has zero defect masking. Choose this before a ceramic coating, or when you want to see the true result.
- A polish with protection refines the paint and leaves something behind. Koch-Chemie Micro Cut and Finish P3.01 removes holograms mechanically while sealing the paint with carnauba wax, and Stjarnagloss Skara contains sealant ingredients.
- A glaze is mainly about gloss and filling. Glasyr fills minor swirls and defects and then seals the paint. A glaze is quick and forgiving, but the marks it fills are still there underneath.
Heavier defects may need more cut, but we recommend testing a mild combination before stepping up. Some marks are safer to leave than to chase. Our guide to compound vs polish explains the choice.
Our picks by job
These are our picks by task. Sanding-mark ratings are a useful guide, not a promise of the same result on every paint finish.
A machine finish after correction
An ultra-fine polishing compound that permanently removes light swirls, holograms and 3000 grit sanding marks without leaving marks or trails, even on softer paint. It is silicone free and body shop safe, and it works by rotary or dual action machine or by hand.
Sonax PROFILINE Perfect Finish
A silicone-free finishing polish that Sonax developed for paint shops. Its fine but hard abrasives remove marks of up to P2000 grit and leave a gloss without holograms or buffing marks. It is made for a rotary machine, and an orbital machine works when only a finish is needed.
Koch-Chemie Micro Cut and Finish P3.01
A machine micro-polish that removes streaks, holograms, fine scratches and sanding marks down to P3000 and seals the paint at the same time. It is rated cut 3.2 and gloss 9.5, and it contains carnauba wax.
Before a ceramic coating
A super-fine finishing polish made for maximum gloss before CarPro CQUARTZ coatings. It has rapidly diminishing abrasives, a fast working time and zero defect masking, and gives a mirror finish on hard and soft paints alike.
One step: cut and finish together
A one-step polishing compound that handles everything from P1500 wet-sanding scratches to final finishing on most paints, from soft clear coats to hard, scratch-resistant ceramic finishes.
Removes swirl marks and sanding marks up to 2500 grade and leaves a high gloss, which makes it suitable as a one-step correction polish. Machine only.
By hand
A fine-cut polish that cleans, glazes and protects gloss paintwork, with added sealant ingredients. Use it by hand or by machine, buff it off once it hazes, and follow with wax or sealant if you want more protection.
A gloss primer that blends fine abrasives with quartz and high-gloss resins. It leaves semi-permanent fillers and SiO2-based protection, primes the paint for a coating, and can be worked by hand with a sponge pad, left 3 minutes to flash and wiped off.
An all-in-one finishing polish with fine abrasives plus carnauba wax, Montan wax and siloxane, for hand or machine application.
Glazes for quick gloss
A high-gloss finishing glaze and durable sealant in one. It fills minor swirls, leaves a hydrophobic layer that lasts up to 4 months, and is easy to apply by hand with a microfibre pad on clean, decontaminated paint.
A high-gloss glaze made for light coloured paints, using oils to bring out the gloss and hide light blemishes, by hand or machine.
Car polishes compared
| Product | Type | By hand? | Rating | Leaves protection? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AutoBead Finishing Compound | Finishing polish | Yes, or machine | 3000 grit marks, no fillers | - |
| Sonax PROFILINE Perfect Finish | Finishing polish | No, rotary or orbital | Marks up to P2000, silicone free | - |
| Koch-Chemie Micro Cut and Finish P3.01 | Finishing polish with sealing | No, machine | Cut 3.2, gloss 9.5, to P3000 | Yes, carnauba wax |
| CarPro Reflect | Super-fine finishing polish | - | Zero defect masking | Made to go under a coating |
| CarPro Fixer | One-step polish | - | P1500 marks to final finish | - |
| AutoBead Medium Cut Compound | One-step correction | No, machine | Up to 2500 grade marks | - |
| Stjarnagloss Skara | Fine-cut polish | Yes, or machine | Cleans, glazes, protects | Yes, sealant ingredients |
| CarPro Essence | Gloss primer | Yes, or DA | 3 minutes to flash by hand | Yes, SiO2 based |
| Stjarnagloss Glasyr | Glaze and sealant | Yes, or machine | Up to 4 months | Yes |
How do you polish a car by machine?
Work on clean, cool paint and establish a small test section with a compatible pad and polish. We recommend the least aggressive combination that gives an acceptable improvement, clean pads throughout and frequent inspection. Keep extra care around edges, repairs and areas with uncertain paint thickness.
- Prepare the paint: wash, decontaminate and dry the car, then work indoors or in the shade on cool panels. Never polish hot surfaces.
- Use a clean pad: keep one pad for each polish. Never mix different polishes on one pad, and keep Koch-Chemie Micro Cut pads for that one polish.
- Prime and dose correctly: follow the chosen polish and pad instructions, then use only the amount needed for the section. Excess product makes the result harder to assess and can load the pad.
- Work a small section: keep each area to no more than 6 times the size of the pad.
- Spread, then work: spread the polish at low speed, then raise the speed and work in overlapping, crosswise passes with light to medium pressure.
- Wipe off and inspect: finish the working cycle specified for your polish, then remove residue with a clean, soft microfibre. Do not keep polishing a dry residue or assume every formula has the same visual stopping point.
- Check and protect: look at the section in good light before moving on, and protect the paint once the whole car is done.
New to machines? Our guide to the best DA polisher covers orbit size, backing plates and pads, and a soft finishing foam pad suits finishing polishes on a dual action machine.
Lake Country SDO-CCS Black Finishing pad
The finishing pad from Lake Country's SDO line, which keeps the tapered CCS design without the dual layer.
Can you polish a car by hand?
Yes, with the right product. Glazes and fine polishes such as Stjarnagloss Skara, Stjarnagloss Glasyr and CarPro Essence are made to go on by hand, and AutoBead Finishing Compound can go on by hand too. Work a thin layer into one panel at a time with a soft applicator. Hand polishing brings up gloss and softens light marks, but it will not match a machine for removing swirls.
Microfibre Foam Applicator Pad
Our own applicator, with a foam core and a microfibre face for polishes, waxes and glazes.
Common questions
What does a car polish actually do?
A polish uses very fine abrasives to level light defects such as swirl marks, holograms and haze, which brings back clarity and reflection. Not everything sold as a polish works the same way, though. Some remove defects and nothing else; others add oils, fillers or a sealant that hide marks and protect the paint at the same time. Neither is wrong, but you should know which you are buying.
What do professionals use to polish a car?
The useful lesson from professional correction is the process: inspect, test, use the minimum cut needed and check the finish under suitable lighting. We recommend choosing the pad and polish together, then refining only when the test result needs it. A multi-stage correction is not automatically better for your paint.
Do you need to wax or seal after polishing?
After a pure polish, yes. A finishing polish made without fillers, such as AutoBead Finishing Compound or CarPro Reflect, is there to refine the paint rather than protect it, so follow it with a wax, sealant or coating. Products with protection built in, such as Koch-Chemie P3.01, Stjarnagloss Skara or Glasyr, can be used on their own or topped up later. Our guide to wax vs sealant vs ceramic coating helps you choose what goes on next.
For the full order of work, see the correct order to detail a car.
To compare cutting, refining and protective finishing within one range, read our Koch-Chemie H9.02, M2.02 and P3.01 guide.
Our polishing-pad guide explains why the pad matters as much as the polish.
Need help choosing?
Tell the TDHQ team what your paint looks like, whether you polish by hand or by machine and what you plan to put on afterwards, and we will point you to the right polish and pad. You can also browse every finishing polish, one-step polish and glaze we stock, or the full AutoBead and CarPro ranges.
Last updated 16 October 2026.